Nigel Slater's pork pie recipe | Food (2024)

Nigel Slater recipes

With the stock, the filling and the pastry, making your own pork pie can seem like a daunting prospect. But get stuck in – the finished product is a thing of beauty

Nigel Slater

Sun 23 May 2010 00.04 BST

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It has never really occurred to me to make my own pork pie. I mean, why would anyone want to, with so many good ones around in the shops? You can't walk more than a hundred yards down the average high street without coming upon a perfectly acceptable version.

Well, let me tell you why. Rarely have I enjoyed making anything quite so much: the bubbling stock, with its grotesque peeping trotters; the soft, warm dough to mould into shape like the potter I always wanted to be; the proud moment of prizing the huge, heavy, porky thing from its tin. Secretly I probably just fancied the challenge of making one to see if I could do it. What I hadn't expected was to end up with something so stonkingly good.

I am not always sure about the fillings for some commercial pies. Too pink, too anonymous. I wanted something with clearly defined nuggets of meat, pinky brown and lightly spiced. Lots of pork belly finely chopped and a little minced bacon were obvious choices for the basis of the filling, but my butcher suggested some pork shoulder, too. Hot water pastry is something I haven't made since domestic science lessons, unless you count the time I thought it would be a good idea for the Christmas mince pies. I had forgotten how much I like the forbidden fruit that is good old-fashioned lard.

I should explain that I am exceptionally fond of a slice of pork pie. Opening the fridge on a hot afternoon to be greeted by a cool, crimp-edged pie and its hidden treasure of generously seasoned pork is one of my favourite moments of summer. I can never work out which bit I like best, having long ago moved on from being the kid who diligently scraped off every last dot of jelly before he would touch the meat and pastry of his Melton Mowbray.

So here I am doing battle with pastry that would be difficult enough to deal with if it was cold, but this stuff is warm and slithery and seemingly incapable of standing up on its own. The faster I mould it up the side of my impromptu cake tin (a stand-in for a traditional wooden pork pie mould) the faster it slides down. Leaving it to cool a bit further sorts out the problem, and suddenly a messy job becomes a pleasingly tactile one. Pressing the warm pastry up the sides of the cake tin is like being back in art lessons at school. Will I be as proud of this as I was of my first misshapen pot? The one that my parents kept trying to put away in the cupboard. Where the dough slides down a little I simply hold it in place with one hand while stuffing in the seasoned meat filling with the other.

Seasoning is the make-or-break moment with something like this. Sage is a knee-jerk seasoning, but I also add chopped thyme leaves and ground mace. This latter flavour is probably one of the least-used spices – it is the ground outer casing of the nutmeg – and gives a warm and dusky note to pâtés. It is used subtly so that it works hand-in-glove with the other seasonings. I'm not sure you ever want to put something in your mouth and think: Ah, yes, mace.

What with the stock, the filling and the pastry, making a pork pie is something to file under "a bit of performance". Yet it is undoubtedly a thing of beauty – plump, handsome, yet unmistakably homely. Something I wouldn't hesitate to make again. Next time I might try Jane Grigson's idea of adding a little anchovy essence to the filling, or try it using a proper wooden mould instead of a make-do version with the cake tin. But then I rather like making do.

Pork pie

1kg boned pork shoulder
250g pork belly
250g streaky bacon
2 bushy sprigs of thyme
2 sage leaves
½ tsp ground mace
½ tsp ground white pepper
2 good pinches ground nutmeg

For the pastry:

200g lard
220g water
575g flour
1 beaten egg
1 x 20cm cake tin

For the stock:

bones from the pork (left)
2 pig's trotters
1 onion
1 small carrot
1 small bunch of parsley stalks
1 rib of celery
6 black peppercorns

DIRECTIONS

Make the filling

You need to chop the pork into small cubes, about 5mm in size. You could mince it, but the texture will be much more interesting if you can bear to cut it by hand. Or you could chop half, then whizz the other briefly in the food processor.

Finely chop the bacon.

Remove the thyme leaves from their stems, add the sage leaves and chop both finely. Mix the herbs into the chopped meats together with the mace, white pepper, nutmeg and 1 tsp each of salt and coarsely ground black pepper.

Make the pastry

Put the lard and water into a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Sift the flour with a good pinch of salt into a large bowl. Pour the hot lard and water into the flour, mix with a wooden spoon, then leave until cool enough to handle. The pastry must be warm when you start to work it.

Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Lightly grease and flour your mould or cake tin (with removable bottom). Pull off a quarter of the pastry and roll it into a lid that will fit the top of the cake tin. Roll the remaining pastry to fit the base of the tin. Lay it in the bottom, then firmly push the dough up the sides with your hands. It should spread quite easily. If it slides down, leave it to cool a bit more. Make certain there are no holes or tears. This is crucial, as the jelly will leak out. Spoon the pork filling into the lined cake tin and press it down. It should come almost to the top of the pastry.

Brush the edges of the pastry above the meat with beaten egg. Lower the lid into place and press tightly to seal with the edges. Poke a small hole in the lid to let out the steam and put the tin on a baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes, then lower the heat to 160C/gas mark 3 and bake for 90 minutes until the pastry is pale gold. Brush with the beaten egg and return to the oven for 30 minutes.

Make the stock

Put the bones into a deep saucepan with the onion, carrot, parsley stalks and the celery rib. Cover with water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and leave the liquid to cook for an hour, watching the water level carefully and topping up where necessary.

Remove from the heat, decant the liquid into a bowl and leave to cool. Refrigerate overnight. If it has set very firmly, simply remove the fat from the top of the stock, transfer to a saucepan and bring to the boil. If it is still on the runny side, then remove the fat as before, pour into a saucepan and boil hard until it is reduced to about 400ml. Season carefully with salt.

When the pie is ready, pour the stock into a jug and then pour it carefully through the hole in the top of the pastry. A funnel is invaluable here. Leave the pie to cool, then refrigerate overnight.


Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk or visit theguardian.com/profile/nigelslaterfor all his recipes in one place

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Nigel Slater's pork pie recipe | Food (2024)

FAQs

What is the difference between a pork pie and a Melton Mowbray pork pie? ›

The sides of a Melton Mowbray Pork Pie are bow-shaped as they are baked free standing, whereas most other pork pies are straight-sided being baked in hoops. The meat used is fresh pork which is naturally grey when cooked, liked roast pork, not pink like other pork pies which used cured pork.

What is the gel in pork pies? ›

Traditional jelly was made with pig trotters boiling in water down to that liquid that turns into jelly. Adding jelly also helps keep the pork filling moist. So if you would like to it's not hard but you will need: Gelatin.

What makes pork pies pink? ›

Historians believe that the pork pie evolved from a pasty. Many parts of the country used to cure the pork filling before using it in a pie thereby creating a pink colour on the inside. In Melton Mowbray, the pie contained uncured fresh meat. Once roasted, the filling was grey resembling uncured roast pork.

Why are pork pies eaten cold? ›

Yes, they are meant to be eaten cold, the meat in a pork pie is surrounded by savoury aspic jelly which would melt if it was heated up spoiling the pie. They often feature in British cold buffets or as part of a ploughman's lunch with bread, cheese & pickle of some kind.

What is the best pork pie? ›

Leeson Family Butchers' Melton Mowbray pork pies are amongst the best in the world. Show Champion 2018, Gold award winner 2019, Show Champion (pork pie category) 2021, 2022 and 2023.

Why is there no jelly in pork pies? ›

While you can make a pork pie without the jelly, traditional pork pies have gelatin (some boiled pig trotters) added to preserve and keep the meat moist. You will often see a small hole in the lid of the pie where the jelly has been poured in.

Can you buy the jelly for pork pies? ›

500g pack of Jelflaval, powdered gelatine. Ideal for home users who want to use smaller quantities to use in their pies.

Why is my pork pie soggy on the bottom? ›

How to Prevent a Soggy Bottom Pie Crust
  1. Blind Bake the Crust.
  2. Choose the Right Rack in the Oven.
  3. Brush the Bottom with Corn Syrup or Egg White.
  4. Put the Pie on a Hot Cookie Sheet.
  5. Make a Thicker Crust.
  6. Add a Layer.
  7. Consider a Metal Pie Pan.
Mar 18, 2024

What is the slang for pork pies? ›

Apart from the literal meaning of actual pies filled with pork, 'pork pies' is co*ckney rhyming slang for 'lies'. With rhyming slang the actual portion that rhymes is often dropped in order to further confuse the outsider, so it becomes 'porkies'. So, someone 'telling porkies' is a liar.

Why is a pork pie called a growler? ›

In Yorkshire, pork pies are often served hot, accompanied with gravy or with mushy peas and mint sauce. It is also a common combination served at Bonfire Night celebrations. In Yorkshire slang a pork pie is sometimes called a "growler", a term probably derived from the "NAAFI growler" of earlier naval and army slang.

Why are some pork pies grey? ›

Grey meat seasoned with salt and pepper, succulent jelly, and bowed walls are the hallmark of a Melton Mowbray pork pie. The meat used is fresh and uncured, which gives it its distinctive grey colouration, in contrast to pork pies made from cured pork, where the meat is pink.

Are pork pies good for you? ›

Pork pies tend to contain quite a lot of saturated fats (lard, pork fat, oil) and salt. They are very high in calories (a small pie can be as much as 500cals) So yeah, I'd say they're fairly unhealthy. Yes and no. I love them and would buy a little one and have it with some vegetables.

What sauce goes best with pork pie? ›

Chutney (or relish)

Delicious with a pork pie! Opt for an onion or vegetable-based chutney. Mango chutney would elevate our curried veg Ruby Murray Pasty!

Can you eat pork pies 5 days out of date? ›

A use-by date on food is about safety. This is the most important date to remember. Never eat food after the use-by date, even if it looks and smells ok, as it could make you very ill.

Who eats pork pie? ›

This portly pastry, filled with pork and savoury jelly, is a British classic dating back centuries. Few dishes link Britain so closely to its gastronomic past as the pork pie. Indeed it's one of the rare everyday foodstuffs that would be instantly recognisable to our medieval forebears.

Are pork pies still made in Melton Mowbray? ›

First hand-raised by baker, Mary Dickinson in 1851 and still made today with over 170 years of expertise, skill and craft. Our pies are made with outdoor-bred, British pork and have peppery seasoning complimenting the rich, hot water crust pastry.

What's special about Melton Mowbray? ›

Because it contains fresh — rather than cured — meat, the inside of a Melton Mowbray pie is the grey of roast pork, rather than the ham-like pink common elsewhere, and seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg or mace.

Do Melton Mowbray pork pies have jelly? ›

Made with seasoned pork shoulder, encased in a rich, hot water crust pastry, surrounded by succulent bonestock jelly. To ensure you get the very best taste experience, take your pork pie out of the fridge to come up to temperature for 30 minutes and then get stuck in.

What is an English pork pie called? ›

The main distinctive feature of a Melton pie is that it is made with a hand-formed crust. The uncured meat of a Melton pie is grey in colour when cooked and the meat is chopped, rather than minced. As the pies are baked free-standing, the sides bow outwards, rather than being vertical as with mould-baked pies.

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